A Revolutionary Pizza: Unveiling the Impact of a Culinary Icon
Prepare to be amazed as we delve into the story of a pizza that has quite literally changed the world. This is not your average food tale; it's a journey through innovation, passion, and the incredible power of a single dish.
The Margherita Sbagliata: A Pizza Like No Other
Imagine a pizza that resembles a masterpiece by Mondrian, with its precise stripes and dots of vibrant colors. This is the Margherita Sbagliata, a creation that has captivated the palates of thousands and earned its place as the most famous pizza on the menu at Pepe In Grani.
But here's where it gets controversial: this pizza challenges traditional methods. Instead of the usual tomato, mozzarella, and basil trio, the Margherita Sbagliata is baked with mozzarella alone, and the tomato purée and basil reduction are added post-cooking. A bold move, indeed!
And this is just the beginning. Pepe In Grani offers an array of unique experiences, from tasting menus featuring deep-fried cone pizzas to sweet and "healthy" pizzas that cater to diverse tastes and dietary needs. The pizzeria even collaborates with the Italian AIRC Foundation for Cancer Research to promote balanced nutrition.
Meet the Mastermind: Franco Pepe
Franco Pepe, a third-generation pizzaiolo, is the genius behind this culinary revolution. His innovations have earned him the respect of renowned chefs like Alain Ducasse and Ana Roš, who have been left in awe at his chef's table.
Pepe In Grani, spread across several floors of a restored townhouse, boasts two traditional Neapolitan domed pizza ovens. During service, Franco can be found greeting guests and posing for photos before retreating to his living quarters within the same building.
I embarked on this journey not to uncover the secrets of Franco's dough or toppings (which he has generously shared in his book, "Franco Pepe: Pizza Chef") but to explore the profound economic and social impact he has had on the region of Caiazzo.
A Family Legacy and a Bold Vision
Franco's story begins with his grandfather, Francesco, who opened a bakery and family shop in Caiazzo in the 1930s, selling pizza by the slice. His father, Stefano, opened a pizzeria in the town center in 1961, where Franco learned the trade. However, Stefano had other plans for his children, wanting them to pursue different paths.
Franco became a physical education teacher, while his brothers, Nino and Massimiliano, trained as an accountant and architect, respectively. It was only after Stefano's passing in 1996 that the brothers decided to take over the family business. But their visions differed.
Inspired by haute cuisine and the Slow Food Movement, Franco dreamed of elevating pizza's status and showcasing regional produce. In 2011, he took a bold step, leaving the family business to start his own pizzeria nearby. Many thought he was crazy, as Caiazzo was not a culinary destination like Naples.
"No one stayed or even passed through," Franco recalls. But he found support from chefs outside Caiazzo, who encouraged him, and gradually, his vision gained traction.
Revolutionizing the Margherita
Franco's revolutionary take on the Margherita pizza was born out of his desire to celebrate the local ricciotomato. Its delicate flavor was altered by heat, so he added the tomatoes after cooking, creating a unique and flavorful experience.
His pizza, L'Alifana, featuring pancetta, smoked scamorza cheese, and onion, was designed to support the fragrant Alife onion, which was on the brink of extinction. By championing these local products, Franco sparked a transformation, inspiring chefs and purveyors worldwide to embrace these ingredients.
The Impact on Caiazzo
"Around Franco, an entire city has grown: a human, economic, and social network," the book states. Franco's impact extends beyond the pizzeria. He employs an agronomist who assists the farmers he works with, and his team is largely made up of young people from the area.
The tourism boom after Franco's appearance on Netflix's "Chef's Table: Pizza" in 2022 led to the emergence of dozens of B&Bs and travel agencies to cater to the demand. "The whole town shuts down on Mondays because we shut on Mondays," Franco says, highlighting the pizzeria's influence on the local economy.
A Knighted Pizzaiolo
In 2020, Franco's efforts during the Covid pandemic were recognized when he was named a Knight of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic. He kept his ovens burning to provide bread for the elderly and those in need in the area, showcasing his commitment to his community.
Now, Franco is working with the Italian government to inspire future generations of pizzaioli. He aims to equip them with knowledge ranging from dough-making and nutrition to economics, reflecting his core mission to "restore dignity to the role of pizza chef and encourage pizzas that are personal, creative, and outside the box."
"Franco Pepe: Pizza Chef" by Franco Pepe is available from Phaidon at £34.95. Ajesh Patalay traveled as a guest of Phaidon and Pepe In Grani.
What do you think? Is Franco's impact on the culinary world and his region truly revolutionary? Share your thoughts in the comments!
