A beloved Mexican restaurant in Portland, República, is sadly closing its doors, and the reasons behind this decision are both heart-wrenching and thought-provoking.
A Tasty Tale of Triumph and Tragedy
República, a Mexican culinary gem, has been a shining star in Portland's dining scene for the past half-decade. From its humble beginnings as a casual lunch spot to becoming one of the city's most ambitious restaurants, it has left an indelible mark. However, the restaurant's co-owners, Angel Medina and Olivia Bartruff, have announced that República will close permanently on February 21st.
Medina, in a heartfelt post on Substack, cited several factors that led to this difficult decision. He mentioned the election of Trump in 2024, a significant drop in reservations last spring, and his deep concerns for the safety of his staff due to the aggressive tactics employed by Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) officers in Minneapolis.
But here's where it gets controversial... Medina's fears are not unfounded. The aggressive nature of ICE operations has been a topic of debate and concern for many, especially in the hospitality industry. It raises questions about the impact of political decisions on small businesses and the well-being of their employees.
República's journey is a testament to the power of ambition and creativity. Before it became the acclaimed restaurant it is today, it started as La Perlita, a cafe in the Pearl District, where it gained a loyal following for its excellent coffee and pop-ups by talented chefs like Bartruff, a pastry maestro, and Lauro Romero, the chef at the Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel's King Tide restaurant.
When a Laughing Planet location closed in the same building, Medina, Bartruff, and Romero seized the opportunity, transforming the space into a lunch haven known for its stunning tri-colored quesadillas and a side of salsa macha.
By the summer of 2021, República was ready to showcase its true potential. Romero joined full-time, and together with the team, they launched an evening tasting menu that wowed critics and diners alike. Our review in December of that year praised Romero's exquisite dishes, from raw fish preparations to time-intensive moles, and the use of unique Mexican ingredients like escamoles and huitlacoche, which are rarely seen in Portland.
República's success was recognized far and wide. It was named Portland's Restaurant of the Year by Portland Monthly, hailed as the city's best new restaurant by Eater PDX, and even made it onto The Oregonian/OregonLive's list of Portland's best post-pandemic restaurants. The accolades continued when Bon Appétit magazine declared República Portland's best Mexican restaurant and added it to their prestigious list of America's best new restaurants for 2022.
However, the restaurant's journey was not without challenges. Romero stepped down as chef in 2022, and over the years, República's kitchen has seen a series of talented chefs, including Juan Gomez from Lilia, Jose "Lalo" Camarena from the popular Metlapil mariscos pop-up, and most recently, Dani Morales, formerly of De Noche, who introduced an a la carte option to the restaurant.
República's closure is a loss for the city's culinary scene, but its impact will be felt beyond its physical location. The restaurant's story serves as a reminder of the fragility of small businesses and the importance of supporting them, especially in times of political and social uncertainty.
And this is the part most people miss... the impact of political decisions on local businesses and communities is often overlooked. República's closure is a stark reminder of the real-world consequences that can arise from political actions.
As we bid farewell to República, let's reflect on the impact of our choices and the importance of supporting the businesses and people that make our communities vibrant and unique. What are your thoughts on the role of politics in shaping our local landscapes? Feel free to share your opinions and engage in a thoughtful discussion in the comments below!
